Even though many may not understand the language in this video, the computer generated images speak for themselves. Of special note is the relationship of riding the horse’s head and how that affects the rest of the horse’s body and movement. There’s a really good example of a correct trot and an incorrect trot. Be sure to watch, not just the changed posture of the horse, but also the changed movement, ie. the swing of the limbs, the placement of the feet. Also note the difference of pulling the horse’s chin into its chest, versus pulling the horse’s head up and then the chin in, and then finally encouraging the horse to stretch forward and down with its neck and head, and opening its throat.
Recently I’ve been inundated with videos of bad riding – thanks so ever much, Amy. Mostly it’s apparent that it’s unintended, based in ignorance, lack of good instruction, practise and/or natural talent. We’ve all been there and I can only hope that as time passes, people learn, and things improve. The following video, though, bothers me far more than many of the rest. There’s a willful intent to use the horse as a toy to show off. It’s as if a bunch of men dropped their drawers and slapped their manhoods on a table to see whose measured biggest…and this guy lost.
Yes, that is suppose to be ‘reining’ with rollbacks and sliding stops. Praise the horse (this one and the entire species) for putting up with such ego-based chest thumping disguised as *cough* riding. ‘Look, Ma! Look at what I can do!’
There are another half dozen videos from the same poster showing more head shaking, jigging, bucking, bad preparation for jumping and a fair bit of just ‘run ’em’ – much of it sans helmet (which might prove to be Karma’s last laugh when all is said and done). I remain confused by the artistic presentation, entirely unaware of the thought process that went into the editing, but mostly I’m confused by the moments of real affection shown for the horse mixed with treatment no better than that of a five year old riding their tricycle over their plastic pail and shovel. Somebody enlighten me.
Today California Chrome had a chance to take home The Triple Crown, if he could just cross the wire first. Instead he finished in a deadheat for fourth. From where I was sitting, he just didn’t have the distance in him, but quickly after the race we had a desk jockey (sports commentator) blaming the jockey for a bad ride (I disagree – thought the jockey did a great job) and a really upset owner claiming it was ‘the coward’s way out’ referencing how fresh horses showed up for the race (having not raced in either the Kentucky Derby or Preakness or both) and then having the other jockeys gang-up on his horse in the race. No matter what side you’re on, horse racing gets people emotional.
I have a real issue with how Thoroughbreds are generally trained and prepared for racing (in North America). It confounds me how almost every year we sit and ask the same question: Will so and so be able to make the distance of The Belmont Stakes? Heck, sometimes we’re asking that question at The Kentucky Derby. While there are clearly horses of sprinting bloodlines, none of those are ever being aimed at The Triple Crown, why are the horses aimed at mile+ races not being trained and conditioned for the longest distance possible? That just makes sense to me. Even if the horse only ever races once in its life at that distance, it only makes sense to prepare for it. It doesn’t hurt the horse to have more stamina then is used in most races. I never trained my Standardbreds just a mile; that would have been stupid. And it never was good if a horse staggered across the mile marker in a training session, even if that training session was at race speed. Nope, I’ll never understand the thinking of these TB trainers.
Steve Coburn thinks that only the twenty horses that start The Kentucky Derby should be eligible to race in the The Preakness, and only those that race in both the first two legs should be eligible to race in The Belmont Stakes. On one hand, he’s got a point. On the other hand, how about you tell your trainer to condition your horse better and train for the distance, then you won’t feel cheated when your horse loses – Mr. ‘I got the NY Racing Commission to change their rules and allow my horse to wear a breathing strip’.
I’m disappointed another year has gone by without a Triple Crown winner. Rest assured the day it happens, that horse and his team of humans will have deserved it…at least until someone claims it was a bad crop of three-year olds.
Amazing Athletic Percheron Paint $23,500
Gentle Giant Ready for Career
Sendero Alza is one of those horses that comes around only once in a lifetime. He’s a kind, gentle giant with an amazing disposition and a true desire to learn. Standing an honest 16.3hh this magnificent Percheron Paint Gelding has an outstanding confirmation, well balanced and true.
Sendero has a strong fundamental and intermediate level foundation on the ground and under saddle. He is forward moving and solid in the walk, trot and canter in a dressage saddle or western saddle. Collect him or ride him out on a loose rein, your wish is his command…
Hmm…that’s a lot of money to be asking of this cross – amazingly athletic or not – so I wanted to take a closer look. His conformation doesn’t hold any surprises. He’s a bit post-legged, downhill built, and too straight, upright, rigid and light through the front leg. On the plus side he’s got a big hip, well-placed LS joint, strong loin, and medium back. His neck is set on medium and structured well. That makes him a potentially ‘okay’ riding mount; neither horrid, nor exceptional. Certainly he’s strong in the right areas to help nullify the full effect of the faults.
I have no criticisms about the majority of this ad. It’s unfortunate that the seller decided to stretch reality. This horse is not a Dressage, Eventing or Jumper prospect in any pure sense of those disciplines as listed.
Certainly he could be taken to a Dressage show and plod around at the lower levels, but he possess no natural suspension to speak of, and his post-leggedness and downhill build are going to make engagement more difficult – though that big hip, LS joint placement and loin will help a lot. He won’t ever get great gait scores, and he’ll always look like a construction worker trying to do ballet. One would want to do Dressage for the benefit of the horse, not as an aspiration to ‘take him up the levels’ in Competitive Dressage.
Certainly he can be taken into a jumping ring; he seems a willing sort. His form is average at best, definitely not going to get those knees to his ears. He’ll have plenty of power to push off with, but will lack some scope. And again, he’ll be handicapped the way a body builder would be if trying to high jump.
Certainly he could be entered in Eventing, but he’s not getting past the lower levels. He’d be unable to make the times on Cross Country beyond those levels, not to mention there’s a lack of cat-like agility, which is often the difference between negotiating a challenging obstacle and disaster. He might suit a youngster for Pony Club.
It would have been much more honest for the seller to stick to the all-around route, since you never expect such an individual to excel in one discipline but rather to provide a safe, enjoyable ride, while piddling around at whatever. That kind of a mount suits a lot of people, and is worth its weight in gold.
If you have the time, check out the videos the seller provides. Those are the most telling. Full praise to the trainer of this horse, because that is exactly how you start a horse and turn it into a valuable asset for a wide range of people, even if the horse isn’t a spectacularly individual. If more people took the time to put this kind of a base on a horse, the equine world would be a significantly better place for horses.
Even with all the basic training this horse has received, providing a real solid base with which to move this horse forward, I still find it hard to swallow a $23.5k price tag.
If you search the words ‘Most Beautiful Horse in the World’, these are the images of the horse typically associated with that title.
As most reading this blog will know, our most beautiful horse candidate is an Akhal-Teke. For any unfamiliar with this breed here are a couple links to get you started:
Beauty, of course, is always in the eyes of the beholder with each of us defining beauty in the world by our own subjective criteria. There are many who will be dazzled simply by the metallic glow of this beast. However, to be most serviceable to those we care take, such as the equine, I think it’s more important to define equine beauty by structure that promotes health, soundness and longevity for purpose. In other words, form for function. In many regards this horse exemplifies its breed for ‘original’ intended purpose and environment:
- thin-skinned to facilitate body cooling
- long, lean muscles that generate less heat and are suited for endurance
- overall racy build for distance coverage
- clean, dry joints, good feet
Without going beyond the two links I provided, you will find this breed touted as excellent for endurance, dressage, jumping, eventing, vaulting, extreme trail etc… The reality is always the same; it depends on the individual horse, the skill and talent of trainer and rider, the level within the discipline and so on.
I question the purity of some of the horses pictured on the Akhal-Teke.org website. Some of them look like crossbreds to me. Certainly the Akhal-Teke, and our Most Beautiful horse, is ideally suited to endurance and any disciplines that require above average stamina and endurance. They’d also tend to be suited to disciplines requiring racing/speed.
Suitability for Dressage
Mhm…not so much and certainly not more than any other random racing conformed individual one can get off the racetrack, and it shows in the dressage pictures displayed on the website I linked. This is simply not a breed, if your ‘serious’ about dressage (medium and up with a natural ability for self-carriage), that will hit your top 10 (or 100) list.
Suitability for Jumping
Certainly able to leap lower level structures like most any other sound equine, and with a little speed added to the equation, even higher. If you take a closer look at the pictures of the individuals jumping and fox hunting on the website, you’ll notice that there are some distinct conformation differences between them and our Most Beautiful Horse, the most obvious being length of pelvis, more general body bulk and compactness. Some of these I suspect are crossbreds.
Suitability for Vaulting
Really? I find this beyond grasping at straws. The ideal vaulting horse almost always is of draft blood, perhaps some mix in there of warmblood. The gaits of the vaulting horse are essential; rhythmic, slow, absorbing, balanced, a chill, obedient temperament, and also that the horse have some body width and mass. Our Most Beautiful Horse fairly represents his breed and is definitely not suited for vaulting in his body.
Suitability for Endurance/Extreme Trail
The Akhal-Teke could stand to be improved in a few areas, while still maintaining its intended purposes AND becoming more suited to other riding disciplines.
Wither – many of the breed possess camel withers. This makes for a rough, disrupted (withers can’t act as well as the fulcrum point) neck connection, and possible saddle fit issues.
Neck – many of the breed possess bull and/or ewe necks (also similiar to a camel). This makes lifting of the base of neck (flattening of the lower cervical curve – which is long and deep in bull (often set on low) and ewe necks -) more difficult, and as that is part of engagement…
Even when this horse articulates its hind joints, lowers its haunch, and lifts its base of neck as a demonstration of engagement, still it is unable to entirely flatten the lower cervical curve; a disruption remains.
Pelvis – many of the breed lack pelvic length. This individual is barely adequate at 29%. Fortunately he has a well-placed LS joint, but this one certainly doesn’t possess any power or explosive ability – like what might be required for getting horse and rider out of a spot on the cross country phase.
I think this is a picture of the same horse in movement. If not, it’s a very good likeness and perhaps a sibling. In any case, we can see the natural tendency to high-headedness and dropping down of the withers that comes from the same neck structure, as well trailing hocks from being over-angulated behind. This is not suitability for riding disciplines.
In conclusion, he’s not ‘my’ Most Beautiful Horse because structurally he lacks in some key areas, even if I only consider him for original purposes.
I’ve owned this horse. Anyone else?
Many thanks to trailrider20 for putting this article together while real life has me away from the blog. While I’ve had no need of slow feeding a horse before, there’s no doubt that there are individuals that gorge themselves and otherwise overeat, and those with medical conditions that need a very controlled diet. Since horses are grazers, these latter two pose additional health dilemmas with their need for tightly controlled feeding. It is in these types of cases that slow feeders can potentially help. As trailrider20 points out some pitfalls, I’d also like to add that there’s a risk of increasing stress via frustration if a hungry horse can’t get enough feed via a slow feeder, defeating the purpose. Like with so many other things in life, balance is key.
If you are happy with what you’re doing, don’t mess with slow feeders. They are a hassle to use; the hay must be checked, the feeder must be kept clean. But if you are wasting any hay, even the pricier feeders will pay for themselves.
Switch over to using it the same way you’d switch to a new feed.
Except for the small mesh hay net (SMHN), it’s usually a good idea to make a homemade feeder to see what works before spending the big bucks on a manufactured one.
Slow feeding does sound great, but what if you have an aggressive eater, easy keeper, or just an older horse on a lot of senior feed that doesn’t need as much hay? Slow feeding 24/7 will work with most horses, but what do you do if it doesn’t?
There are 3 ways to go, bag or net, horizontal, and vertical.
Most people start with a SMHN. They are cheap, easy to clean, and given a few weeks will work for most horses. To work best they should swing free. Securing them in a tub is another popular way to use them. There are now a dizzying array of nets and bags available. I’ve never tried any of the bags, they looked too hard to keep clean, and the nets did not work for my horse. If it was swinging free, he was constantly batting it around at the same time he was chewing and swallowing. Since we are trying to get the horse to eat in as natural a way as possible, this is not it. Putting it inside a tub did not stop him from doing this; also he started grinding down his teeth.
These feeders keep your horse’s head down in a more natural position and there is nothing to bat around. There are a lot of manufactured ones, but it’s easy to make one. I’ve seen vinyl lattice (my horse crunched that in 1 second and I had to grab him to make sure nothing was going down his gizzard), chain link (lip could get caught), wood with holes cut in (splinters?), and all kinds of other kooky things.
However these feeders have a big problem. They are a hassle to keep clean. Your aggressive eater is not going to “gently take a few strands and slowly and thoughtfully chew them” like the manufacturers of these things claim. He’ll be using his teeth and lips – my horse used his tongue – and because I have flies they would descend like something out of a horror movie.
How often you need to clean it will depend on whether it’s inside or out, the amount of moisture in the air, but the hay can get moldy fast. Think long and carefully before using a horizontal. Keep in mind that the feeder should be easy for someone else to clean, too.
When a company came out with a barrel thingy with a plastic top full of holes I thought this might be a good idea. The barrel was small enough to just pick up and take out of the corral to clean, and my horse might not grind his teeth down on the plastic. I took a muck bucket and cut some holes in it (yes, my holes are a lot bigger but that was the best I could do). I took a second muck bucket, put hay in it, and put mine on top, thusly.
My horse put his head down in there and in a few minutes had so much steam going, besides inhaling hay particles, that this did not work. If your horse picks his head out of the barrel every so often, this thing could work. I tried turning it around and this did work.
But I could not figure out how to get more than a small amount of hay in there and keep his head low to the ground, besides securing it so he didn’t roll it all over the corral. I gave up on that promising design.
But don’t worry that I did all that work for nothing. I put the one with holes in it on my muck bucket cart, and use it every day as my hay is often dusty or dirty. In fact, most of the things I tried that did not work, I eventually found another use for.
These feeders have a chute that the hay slides down against a grate and the horse eats from the side of the mouth. I have used a vertical for many years with some minor damage to the teeth.
However, these feeders have a problem. It might take a week, it might take a month, but the hay will get stuck in the chute, seemingly defying gravity as it hangs there refusing to move down to the grate. I solved this by making it a spring load. Here is my home made spring load, guaranteed 100% to work.
Even if one of the springs breaks, in this case I’m using bungee cords for the springs; the other one will push the hay to the grate.
You will notice that mine is slanted, not straight up and down, to keep my horse’s head in a more natural position.
However, there was a level of frustration, a certain amount of pressure to head and neck that just never went away, and I eventually gave up on slow feeders and switched to this automatic feeder.
And it wasn’t until I did so, feeding every few hours around the clock, that slow feeding actually started to work with this horse. Do I feel bad about using the slow feeders all those years when it so obviously wasn’t working? Of course, but I thought I was doing what was best for the horse.
Automatics are very expensive, but they are easy to use and keep clean.
Do It Yourself Automatic Feeders
On the internet you will find some homemade automatics. Even if you make a one shelf drop (yes, you can buy one but at that price l would get an electrician to make the drop and build the cabinet myself) keep in mind that you can program it to drop whenever you want. If you are currently feeding two times a day your horse will be fed four times, three feedings a day becomes six times and so on.
Keep safety in mind. My horse does not paw; if he did I would have to figure something else out. To keep the tub from being tossed all over the corral I use a rope, but keep the rope taped up under the lip so the horse can’t get at it.
If you check out Paddock Paradise, you will read the story of the donkey that died in a manufactured feeder. Make sure if you are hanging a bag or net, your horse cannot get his head tangled in it. Run your hand over your feeder to make sure there is nothing sharp that a lip could get caught on or in. Check your horse’s lips, teeth and tongue regularly. Your horse will probably lose a few whiskers. If you are having a problem, take a book or something and sit there for an hour to really see what your horse is doing, don’t just assume that it’s working if you only see what your horse is doing in the first five minutes of trying out a new feeder.
A little something to lighten the mood.
Got a call late last night that the police had found my van just a couple of miles from home. Unfortunately most of my tack was taken, though clearly the thieves didn’t know diddly squat about horse tack. They took five whips (longe, two dressage, two driving), which were essentially worthless due to age/cracking/damage, but left behind two pristine white cotton longe lines and an absolutely one-of-a-kind longeing cavesson. They took my bridle, but left behind the quilted bridle bag and the flash that belongs to the bridle.
They took ONE side rein and for some reason that really bothers me. I’d rather they’d taken both. The side reins were specially ordered for me by a good friend and handcrafted, and since I use side reins so rarely, they were in like-new condition. What the hell am I going to do with one side rein, other than be reminded the other was stolen?! They took my saddle, but left behind the saddle cover. They took two stall bandages, but not the polos. And they left behind my pail with brushes, hoof pick, shampoo, conditioner, sponge etc… Oh, and they were kind enough to leave behind my rasp, but took my helmet and riding gloves, along with my helmet bag.
My van is in rough shape. The steering column is a mess and my key wouldn’t fit in the ignition. Dead battery. And somehow they managed to put a huge dent in my right front fender. Seriously? You drove it two whole frigging miles and couldn’t do that without denting it?! Or, did your hotwire job end up short circuiting the whole vehicle, and in a fit of rage you kicked it?
The local tack shops are on notice and I’ll be spending the next while searching Craigslist and Ebay for my stuff. Who knows, maybe I’ll get lucky.
Besides what just recently happened, I’ve got a few other real life things going on that will limit my time to put together blog articles for the next month and a half. Please keep checking in and visiting, and by mid-June stuff should be sorted and settled with articles coming more regular.